scalp

Got up to the scalp for an early session. Found my mp3 player which I had forgotten up there on sunday and it was still in perfect working order, shows how good the weather's been. Started on dark angle, found the sitter less painful on my finger, pleased to get the first move but then barned off, then was greasing off after that. Up to ldf, i'm still in wax mode for that line, but was a little frustrated that i can flash it as then i'm done there. Did a little perusing and realised there's a leftwards line which goes out through a relatively narrow gap. I found it a problem in the true sense of the word, slightly awkward and needs right sequence to unlock the bottom and then a lovely top out, Manhole, 6b+ maybe harder. Cleaned the wall behind/left of it also, there might be a short arse line there. Up to beside Ahab's, did Paul's thing then tried the other line, its bulky as fuck and i wasn't getting past previous point.

scalp

after a day of overeating at the state's expense i felt obliged to do something this evening and decided on the scalp principally for the cycle. got there earlier than dave and did dark angle while i was waiting. tried sitter and my finger told me in no uncertain terms to stand up and walk away. went up to the arete line and seems like it might be a non starter. then headed up to one of many low balls and found a thrutchy, short arse scrubby little line which was great fun on good rock and put up enough of a fight to require a return visit. every visit to the scalp is a kick to nothing for me so i'm pleased the last couple of times its come good.

tired of glendo tired of life

Went for a friday night special in the sun. There were midge, the first i've seen, but not biting. Conditions not the best to start with but as darkness fell they got better. pottered around the ruins until a mob had gathered then moved into the scree a little to try ADP, the nice roof, which i managed to get with a bit of work. headed white arrowwards, me n trish tried quality control but it was a bit snatchy in the dark and my finger was in bad shape. finished on white arrow which totally stumped me for a while, then as everyone left i managed it. a general eagerness to start drinking drew everyone up into the forest at this point. drank and ate around a good fire which i took lots of pictures of. not a one tent was pitched.

awoke a little foggy but was down by the stones by 10. tried to focus a bit but failed, mostly practised the fine art of fuckology. played a little with a traverse line on big jim but things were mostly half hearted. a man came upon us at one stage, we did the chat with him and hoped he hadn't heard us talking about cocks. we were 3 at this point. trish tried pokery but failed totally. i looked at afro left and was a little disgusted by the starting foot block. we left so james could flirt with the middle aged woman who sells him coffee. i went to work forever.

camaderry

went up camaderry for the night to check out some higher stuff than we'd visited before. i enjoyed the camping element more than the climbing, never really got my teeth in to the climbing for various reasons. the camping was in perfect weather, we stayed on the ridge to avoid the midge and they were never an issue up there, gave us a lovely vantage point as well. ped did a galloping puke which was a new and wonderful audio-visual experience in the fading light.

3 rock

headed up 3 rock with tim and a delayed mark. felt like i'd been a lot but needed a breeze to pretend there was anything approaching conditions so we avoided the scalp. in the end i had a great little evening, even if i had everything a bit wired. did pretty much everything. managed the ss to the centre line which was first time in a long time, flashed the little dyno which i've never done. we were moving fairly quickly at this stage for fear of the cars getting locked in but did all the back lines and managed to get up the eliminate bulge, a really lovely problem with a nice hug it out top sequence, surprising we've never worked it properly considering some of the ridiculous little eliminates we have up there.

on a good day going up 3 rock with others i feel almost self conscious of how much i enjoy it. and i'm no good at tour guiding it cos i'm conscious of how faintly absurd some of the climbing is.

need to give it a break now for a while before boredom sets in.

3 rock

got up 3 rock for a snatched but long enough session. initially damp but dried with the sun and turned very occasionally greasy. the vertical line i did last week is nicely easy. we tried the one project around the corner both using different methods as my finger couldn't stomach the crimp. maybe with better conditions. tried a ss thing i hadn't tried before properly on the last crop, davo tells me its in the guide not as a ss, regardless its nice to add a very enjoyable line to the repertoire. also retried the eliminate to the left of postslot problem, felt like there was a holdable right hand in colder weather so that you could reach out left, a high ball by 3 rock standards.