Monday, May 18, 2009

Scalp

Went up to a dank scalp to see a pair of lines near primer listed as projects, the right one of which we hear has since been done as two independent lines. The left line goes from a lovely head height break drop knee up to a small hold on the arete and somehow bump about a foot higher on the arete to a better hold. From here another 8 feet of dirty arete will top you out. Good landing for the lines. Fucking weather. Midges were out as well.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Slowing down

Having gone to virginia and climbed on some fantastic sandstone I overdid it with two 3-day-on sessions on sweaty rock and tweaked my left elbow. It felt worse than font elbow ever has, aching quite piercingly for several days after i had finished climbing. So it is useful to come home with less time on my hands and facing into a warm wet summer when bouldering can take a backseat. I suspect i might still attend the coop at least once a week and hopefully get outdoors a couple of times a week but i do not aim to stay strong over the summer instead i will "rest" for the summer and hopefully iron out any tweaks without losing my baseline tendon strength, then hit the coop running in september so as to be ready for some form of autumn Font trip.

Got up to scalp for an hour. There is more there than i have previously acknowledged but the rock often leaves me cold. Useful distance.

Need to get back to hollywood.