got into glendo for a rushed festive special on xmas eve. conditions were generally pretty good, with the occasional damp hiding in the creases. started out on big jim, good craic then back over the river where the we spread out into the boulders. squamish was damp so i tried a midge too far, the others eye for a good problem was far too unrefined to recognise the improbability of such a fine start on magnificent rock. they got stuck into a sideways squeeze chimney instead, i tried it once but was trying to climb through when in reality you need to roll up your sleeves and thug through. trish was wandering around off her head on drugs, a very poor example to the kids. the lads were rushing off whilst our car was under no time duress but the chimney had worn through jeff and ped had finished his space walk so we left after a couple of abortive efforts on superstars. fun if relatively unproductive day.

headed into gravity today and had very enjoyable, vaguely hungover, fat bellied time. got one problem before tim and was happy to let him generally burn me off the rest of the time. good honest fuckology.

Three rock

Got up to my favorite haunt cos it was local and stood a small chance of being climb able unlike the grey and mowldy lowlands. The cold was back with a bang and we hovered around the puddles reluctant to take hands out of pockets. The rock was as unforgiving as ever and the lingering damp didn't help when trying to avoid rasping off holds. Gina and bray tried a couple of things but seemed happy to natter. Managed a few things on the middle stack and then down to the third hoping for shelter from the bitter wind. Feet were frozen but managed most of the usuals. Good Christmasy feeling snatched session.

fuck yeah.

a year ago i'd have been grumpy at the idea of having spent a dry day off in the scalp. Headed out with dave in the late afternoon when the light had already changed. Started on dark angle which looked soaked but was actually grand, that weird dark veneer of recently wet rock. Managed the standing fine and was pleased to solidly hold the good hold from a sitter only to barn off. Tried it a couple of times, i'd like to think it was only dave's shit chalk between me and success. Up to ldf for the flash, heel hooking a puddle, and left manhole as it was green on top. Tried gentilly, managed the standing and then steadily scoured my skin away trying the sitter, the bulk was mighty. Finished on the snatchy hole problem further in, only managing it when i avoided the soaking left heel and went right hand first. Overall managed to sample some of the best rock quality in the scalp, really enjoyable. Skin is fairy-liquid fragile but hopefully i can do some more damage while i'm home.