got into glendo for a rushed festive special on xmas eve. conditions were generally pretty good, with the occasional damp hiding in the creases. started out on big jim, good craic then back over the river where the we spread out into the boulders. squamish was damp so i tried a midge too far, the others eye for a good problem was far too unrefined to recognise the improbability of such a fine start on magnificent rock. they got stuck into a sideways squeeze chimney instead, i tried it once but was trying to climb through when in reality you need to roll up your sleeves and thug through. trish was wandering around off her head on drugs, a very poor example to the kids. the lads were rushing off whilst our car was under no time duress but the chimney had worn through jeff and ped had finished his space walk so we left after a couple of abortive efforts on superstars. fun if relatively unproductive day.

headed into gravity today and had very enjoyable, vaguely hungover, fat bellied time. got one problem before tim and was happy to let him generally burn me off the rest of the time. good honest fuckology.