Wednesday, September 16, 2009

autumns first

headed direct from work parked at hostel and was at the ruins by 5.15, sempre fi. conditions were great, cool, no midge. dry underfoot there so tried the usuals, no hands slab, cherry etc. found legs to be very shaky, almost disco leg maybe too much caffeine or not enough sleep. Got the start of barrys problem first time which i rarely get. headed up to pathside, flashed ss rails with a little more grace this time, same with pathside traverse, nearly pulled calf muscle trying line left of egg ss but felt strong on it. headed up to fin ss with confidence but found that a lack of skin and chalk ( I had some in the car fucking spanner) let me down, could hit the right handhold with relative ease but greased off repeatedly. back down to superstars and BBE which firmly put me in my place, barely getting my foot up on superstars. BBE you fucking inscrutable nightmare. then over to andy's arete, did from standing but lacked the "stamina" to do from sit, crimp felt fine just faded each time i tried to move right hand to arete. after this selective tour of the harder offerings i headed home in fading light, possibly back tomorrow. the leaves are turning.

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