Sunday, June 13, 2010

Went to delphi with little real conviction on finding much to do. Started badly going in up to my crotch in a bog hole. Rock turned out to be worth it though, purple sandstone with the occasional rock solid cobble cemented in. First boulder was nice with the vague look of potential nearby. From there we headed right up the valley to the main event a very upright boulder, 3rd rock from the bog. There was some lovely easy stuff and some good looking lines up a high ball double overlapped main face. The whole boulder needed a serious clean, the harder lines particularly but there must be about 8 lines on it. The rock type is the finest rock i've played on in a long time. Further up again to the beginning of the broader valley bowl i could see vague possibilities but more time was needed. At the end of the forest annoyingly close there appeared to be the best hope of maybe one or two more boulders. On our walk back down to the track we cut right between the forests up to a square smallish block 5 minutes uphill. Unfortunately we dumped our bags as we were rushing to meet the babysitter. The block turned out to have 2 lovely things to play on, a perfect steep mantle undoable without shoes and a little 5+ we managed in our boots. Left the place very psyched, the rock being such that one good line would be enough to draw me back and the potential of the many hills around here which appear to be of the same rock type.





Went to fairhead meet and the increasingly popular bouldering below the cliffs. The setting was amazing and the rock lent itself to some lovely gritty crimps, the dial m line particularly stands out as one of the finest lines for its 5 ish grade in the country imo. After that did a lot of exploring but found surprisingly little of an amenable grade. Found the classics, eat it etc and they looked lovely but generally harder problems were all we could find. I wouldn't be rushing back unless I was coop fit and even then I'd want a local, several pads and a route climbers head for heights. And the reality was that the cliffs above us were busy with "real" climbers and i'm not so out of touch with my roots that i didn't feel a little silly playing on the scraps dropped from the table above. Silly enough that when dec came up he kindly belay nannyed us up a couple of routes, bravo dec, which I enjoyed greatly. Good meet, nice big crowd. Got a little more info on the grit but need more.



Pottered on a beginner's circuit up at carrigshouk, quite a bit of rock there when you look but generally only easy stuff. Explored some new rock up around the mac, put in some good cleaning efforts. Mostly craglets but a good sized boulder there also with a lovely slopey break, high and hard. Below it a lovely looking short steep wall into slopey mantle, looks hard. Hopefully a couple of days rain will clean it right up.




Scalped at some stage, enjoyed it, saw the 8a, looked awkward.




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