Monday, April 6, 2009
Climbed a little bit on saturday evening and then again with a foggy head on sunday morning. I'd forgotten how much potential there was in lough dan, though generally lough dan granite is a poor relative of the surrounding valleys, sugary, dirty, occasionally friable. Did Beef to the Heel, waist high lip traverse on nice roof formation. On what i think is the no.9 boulder ( Three Kings in my mind) there were 3 very nice distinct lines, managed the lines on either arete (nice subtle right arete had evidence of cleaning, great moves, left face/arete was nice slap then up to lovely rib) and did a rough clean out of the crack up the face but didn't manage to top out. Nice obvious pure line which should go without great difficulty if the crack continues to provide holds further up as it did in the first section, feet on crystals. Shadow boulder is surprisingly big, i fixated somewhat on a direct line up the left arete which involves somehow pulling over the bulge on opposing sidepulls, to a high left foot and uncoiling spectacularly to throw either for big flat left break or for perfect right hand slot on face. One for the wads.