Sunday, October 17, 2010

brimful and thor

made the most of the perfect saturday by heading up to the grit again, started fierce early, picking up timmo at 7.45am. between jigs and reels and other pick ups probably actually only got to the brimstone barrier at 11. by fluke or design jimmy and joe joined us before very long and also another local michael, happy again to give us whatever beta we needed. brimstones acted as quite a suntrap, enough to make me climb topless until fear for my nipples made me put that shit away. the rock was as perfect as remembered, unfortunately the sun made it a little less than perfect conditions. still managed the groove after watching joe style his way up it. fantastic problem, one of the most sequencey i've come across, i probably would have spent weeks figuring out the more elegant solution. the top move is a peach. from here we headed around to brims. west, out of the sun and a bit dirtier but with some brilliant features/lines. the headline is another tricksy gem recently fa'ed by duffy which had us all (/john) addled trying to hold the vague slopey holds. very conditionsy, you could sense a few degrees difference would have made it quite doable. one to come back to. finding ourselves in a rush we busted up to tor mountain where we tried a couple of lines on the lower boulder which we'd lost to the rain previously. made progress but scrittle and dirt go the better of us, a rope, harness and a hard bristle brush will work wonders. then we can worry about the slabby top out which could very easily be the main event every time.

from tor to the blanch centre in under 2 hours where traffic snarls had tim practising his sorry face. thanks again to the local lads who were brilliant, very welcoming.

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