Monday, March 15, 2010
back to glendo at the rock at 5.10 with sunset at 6.31 ish and still climbing at 7 pm. started in ruins first time in an age. did wallop, remembered the right holds without which its nails. also the frustration slap which was lovely but the first real indication that friction wasn't perfect. up to egg ss and relearnt it. first right hand suddenly had sharp point to it i don't remember, now bunch fingers under it. leave room on ramp for right foot. throw left hand to higher on crimp. when reach hand ramp with right its best as an almost crimp, left hand goes in behind and left. building on yesterdays thoughts i decided tonight its like a stuck combination lock, you can get all the details right but in the end you still have to thug it. twice i got to the hand ramp and fucked up the thugging through, one time managing to open my belt and top button of my jeans in my desperate humping. walked away tired, tried bmx a couple of times but failed then over the river to andys to examine my crimp strength. crimp felt huge and i'd like to think only fading light and energy stopped me getting it. good session left tired. brought crossword found my most successful efforts came after crossword rests.