Friday, February 25, 2011

Glendalough in the dark.

Went to glendo for a lamper session in the end despite some vaguely complicated logistics but was well rewarded with what felt like the longest session i've had in a while. Headed down with trish ahead of bray and dave, in for about half 6. Rain was threatening vaguely but we kept faith and it was unbelieveably mild at first, climbing in t-shirts with head-torches in february. The friction whilst not perfect was not as bad as this would imply and got better as the sky cleared and wind picked up in to the evening, lovely camping weather.

Warmed up waiting for the lads and tried egg traverse for first time. Feels well hard at the end even ignoring the glaring stamina element. Found if i put my foot in deeper on the good ramp on the right i could hit the sloper comfortably enough. Then was trying dropping left hand to good crimp to work my way around the corner somewhat to try and go for the rib. A long way off. Also had a look at the stepped slab to the right of the warm up ramp, found i could get my foot up on the slab but there was just nothing to put your foot on. While the lads warmed up i tried the egg, couldn't really argue with the left hand just didn't feel strong enough to move through. Then we moved up to pascals briefly, had some weak efforts before going into squamish which kept us nicely entertained despite the vague shades of green, good line for tweaking technique. The right line mantle i wanted to try came in for some sustained ridicule. They'll see.

Up to fuck all left for the first time and was pretty amazed at the line, the steep scoop and perfectly positioned holds. Could hit and hold lip but was not holding the resulting barn door. Can't really work out why the line goes left, there appears to be perfectly good holds going straight up including a worrying but positive foothold on the lip. Back then to behind pascals for beachball, and the arete to the right of it etc, and trish apnea'd her way up the chimney. We left at about 11.

All in it felt like a perfect blend of old and new, proper busted up today.

1 comment:

  1. Hey Diarmuid,

    Sounds like you had a good session. I have done the line straight up on fuck all left, and yes it's a precarious little rock over on the lip. This line was done before fuck all left so I think that you could say that it's the original, probably goes at 7a. After seeing the vid of you on Dark Angle, I realised I was confusing it with LDF, I went out to it and did it yesterday, nice little problem....

    Take it easy,

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