Thursday, February 3, 2011

Oh that stealthy rhythm...

Got into glendo shortly after ten, thinking i was great only to meet ciaran on his way out having done chillax, starting at 7.30 am. Warmed up waiting for john and tim, got a little worried on superstars but got it fine. after the briefest of warm ups the lads were ready to head across the river. john pretty much flashed r&s on the day, very impressive. me n tim plugged away and both succeeded in close succession. real pleased cos last week i was sceptical. found i kept missing the left high hold, going lower and higher but not hitting it. once i hit it properly the rest flowed real well, no fear in the heel, the spike suddenly seemed a grand distance and the top out off right was fine. glad its done, the landing is unnerving when you're working it, a couple of worrying spits. tried leftism after, all the kids are at it these days. found i could move on it relatively well, maybe that's the attraction. worth a couple of good efforts anyway.

awkward start, don't cross hands, left on higher side pull, right lower, paste right foot then right heel hook on high ledge and go to main crimp, shift r heel along, cross through with right h, then john says switch r heel to toe. feels hard bearing only through right hand as left goes for slopey ramp/arete.

after headed to quality control, found the last move uncooperative, but found the initial foot paste fine from the very first go which is a change. the lads got it, it started to spit , then stopped, we tried the egg a bit, annoyed everyone, then pascals briefly, john again nearly flashed it. then it rained.

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