Waxing Empirical

Had a daylight/lamp crossover session with timmo in glendo, tore down after him after all duties had been dispatched. Got in and suddenly felt tired and not so motivated, warmed up real briefly before trying stuff on the egg with little success. Managed to get through the worst of the egg ss but couldn't get the rib. We backed off before we wasted too much skin, up to Fuck all left. Initially found it harder than before and felt way off holding the barn. Kept at it though, tim demo'ed the top section with ease so we worked the bottom for a while. Did a sparkle special by deciding it was my last go, we were both sick of trying the one move, and then i stuck it and topped out. Tim was obliged to get it now, kept repeatedly sticking the move we'd spent an age trying without success, only to not top out, one he'll flash another day. From here we had intended to go to white stick but darkness ruled it out. Went to fin instead, friction getting minty fresh the whole time. Managed to get the fin with a bit of effort but with surprisingly poor use of the right handhold, there's such good rock on that problem. Pottered on the other local problems all very lovely. The left arete of arotf has grown back in to a nice little line in my mind. Felt late but the conditions felt too good to waste so we headed in to chillax to try the softest 7a in Europe. Found on my first go that without thinking i could transfer my left hand out on to the lip without using the heel, something i wouldn't have dreamt of trying, felt super solid. Tried again but failed by paying attention to it and then just resorted to old heel up method and topped out. Fine end to a fine evening.