Friday, September 16, 2011

branson's back garden

got up to the art blocs today and was pleasantly surprised at their size and quality. it would have been better if both boulders were in the same field and not 3 miles apart but such are the complexities of modern art. as quarried granite there were occasional hints of dalkey shit friction but it was very sunny, other times it was a pretty sharp crimpfest closer to the scalp. the boulders were both high enough that you only want to top out if you're sure there's a feasible way down and the larger boreholes lower down had been filled in, i assume to stop kids getting out of their depth. One line caught my imagination on each boulder, both having foot faggotry as key. On the shoreditch boulder it was an arete/face line using a toe hook to stop a barn door from which you reach to the heinously smooth sloping rail of a bisected borehole. on the mabley boulder it was an overhanging corner involving more boreholes and a heelhook. i failed to top out either line which is a result really, considering its the only outdoor bouldering within cycling distance. skin pinked up very quickly.

both pics of mabley boulder. didn't want to leave my camera down at the shoreditch boulder, a couple of toothless drunks on bikes seemed far too keen on me getting to the top.

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