Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Glenmac again + Mall Hill

Was lured back to Glenmac despite the very warm weather, perfectly blue skies, was hopeful that the shade would be where i needed it and was proved right. Despite several days of sun the ground was still quite wet, solidarity landing was still boggy and at one stage on the walk in i went up to my knee.

With the sun on my back but my fingers in the shade I claimed Solidarity in about 4 or 5 gos, it felt good and not too hard with the top out making me sweat. I tried the left arete briefly but the sun was blinding from that angle so left it quickly.

First try of the steep face had me getting as close as i ever had, but it took the discovery of a new crimp on an old hold for me to finally top out. This was a close run thing and with my skin and the shade both disappearing i had to force the issue more than i liked. Feet got wet cos i spazzed.

Headed out at this point skin bad but not done, headed up to the line in Mall hill in search of new project. I had dismissed it in the past as too hard for me and little has changed. Sit start is nails. Stand start would be very hard. Possibly a vague jump start would get me on but i need more pads and a spotter to investigate further. Rock quality is poorer than i would've hoped, with grains rolling off under skin. Arete is slopey as fuck nearly the whole way so this could be a huge issue. (What i thought was a cleaned groove i suspect is actually a run off channel something i noted with relief.) I took consolation in the fact that summer is coming and another project is probably not what i need.

Had a lose the will to live descent out of Mall Hill, long day.

weight 72.5 kg

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