Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Glenmac projects

Solidarity - right foot on low crystal , right hand low, left hand high with two fingery crystals and left foot steps up to little ramp on arete. Left hand high to best bit after step, settle. Maybe one finger right hand on nearest crystal on face to stop barn and right foot high, got highest with this method once but very tenuous. Or else right hand inside level almost with high right foot and try and uncoil. Higher foot disappointing.

Steep rasher Face - Right on shelf, left on slanty crimp, left foot on low ledge, left hand up to middle notch, heel to right hand, right hand up to right crimp with thumb on square crystal, settle, left out to left crimp, settle, right hand just up to slightly right of apex of lip, settle, left hand over lip to the goodness. right hand up and over to hold on break by crystal, right foot up to unused rightmost crimp, left hand palming down, bear thru right hand. Came off at this point but doable with skin and conditions.

Remember lines on happy days boulder and scoop on back of flaming tips boulder.

Conditions strange. Access very muddy as expected. Walk in quicker than expected, 25 minutes to tips boulder. Weather was very mild even sunny, and quite windy, but faces in the shade were damp to soaking whereas rock in the direct sun was greasy, as shown by failure to get up full irish, ( also due to ongoing problem with bearing through right knee when heelhooking). Lucky with general condition of rasher and solidarity. Landings very boggy under both, torn bivi bag gave some sense of stayng dry but not particularly, still worth the weight. Skin the most important commodity on this trip, 5 blood points by the end and tips very raw. Peeling from first crease on both indexes returned after abating in recent times. Midges out, 5 or 6 of them but no bites. Waterloggedness annoying, lot of mat adjustment on bivi bag. Only really tried those two problems in over 2 1/2 hours apart from brief effort on full irish.

Nearly encountered group of walkers on way out, comfortably outside of conversation range, practiced my big foot glance as they stared at my mat.

No comments:

Post a Comment