Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Back to the mac
Took advantage of the long stretch of dry weather and bounced into glenmac on springy turf. Mostly dry where it mattered, nothing a small tarp couldn't handle. Took under 30 minutes to reach solidarity which i tried a few times from the right using my previous beta but no dice. It's always a rude awakening to the skin getting on solidarity, skin ridging up quickly. Up to the rasher where i think i slightly altered my beta, throwing up the left to the slopey hold with the thumb catch. Everything else remained the same and in fact the right foot at the end was very useful, slightly counter intuitive beta. In the end the problem went quite easily, a soft touch 7a for wall rats? Did full irish with relative ease, fantastic problem, looked at the mixed grill continuation left but didn't give it a real go. Headed direct for the dice boulders next, sat down to the line left of monkey burger and could get back to the same position, still very hard but i think its a brilliant problem, such improbable slopers to hold. Did le joker and the various other lines there and was a little bit enraptured with the wonder of it all, such amazing unforgiving friction. Ended up throwing myself at monkey burger and surprised myself by hitting the lip a couple of times. Two little projects for myself side by side?
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