Saturday, April 3, 2010

stolen day

drove down speculatively with dec to glendo and it started to rain at laragh. coffee and a creme egg with the nice ladies and continued doubtfully on our way only to find the roads dry within a few hundred metres. sun subsequently stayed out until we drove home at 5.

started big jim, did a lap, couldn't get barrys, need left foot on. then over to andy's and worked for a while in quite poor conditions. dec got up it but i did nay. debated trying pascals but decided against it. headed into decs pyramid 7a that isn't. not sure now from guide but if we had same prob we agreed it was probably 6a. pottered on a few things around here. then worked way over to quality control which has a very awkward start. by the the end i grudgingly conceded its a nice problem with some lovely holds. ran out of skin and juice to do the rh finish which seems like the more natural line and involves an interesting right toe left heel squeeze to throw for the crimp, upper section seemed fine just need to get the starting pop. conditions pretty poor on these problems.

cooped twice midweek starting to focus a bit more on crimps.

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