Thursday, April 8, 2010

glendo

headed down to glendo with sick boy and big daddy, hot day occasionally shitty conditions. warmed up on tripod which bless it is a good bloc with several independent good lines. then to andys where we failed to make any impact, though i did do out the top section. then for a wander over to craftsmanship where i changed my footwork to right foot on the little pointy bit and left foot sort of just resting on foothold of qc. would have done it if not for my flapper tape. made way through scree did little nice bulgy yoke nice holds, 5 maybe and then Scrittles, a step up and slopey crystally mantle that should become a rite of passage like the chimney, 5+ going on 8a, hernia inducing, between dec's pyramid and track. the lads were playing on pascals, tim should have got it, and after a few tries i am starting to feel better on it, use tims method, drop right knee as you crank up on the left undersidecut, was going for sidepull dab more comfortably, need to get that in exact right spot. if i hit the upper crimp, left heel up to bring left to triangle, then two feet on and throw full length for gash jab, right foot out under right hand, drop left onto crimp and campus for top with right. i will never read this description again.

good day topped by dave seeming to accept that superstars meets his criteria for an independent line, justifying its own number in the guide. in front of three witnesses.

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